How To Remove Loosen Bolt Nut Washer Screw Auto Dealers

We've all run into it. That one bolt that you need to get off to replace something, and you just can't do it. You blame yourself for being weak, throw your tools all over the garage, and give up. Well no more of that! Here are a few tips on how to remove severely seized bolts.

Rule 1: Never crank on a rusted bolt too hard. If it won't go, stop trying. Old rusted bolts have a tendency to just crack, and if you crack the head off a large bolt, you've got other things to worry about How To Remove Loosen Bolt Nut Washer Screw Auto Dealers.

Tip 1: WD40 is useless. WD40 is a lubricating oil. It is great for light rust, along with it's other uses, but it does nothing in terms of seized bolts.

Tip 2: The best thing you can buy for a seized bolt is penetrating oil. The most common product is a spray called "PB Blaster". There are generics out there, and I have used those without a problem. Penetrating oil usually comes pretty cheap and a bottle lasts for a long time, so it's definitely a good investment. If you have a severely seized bolt, spray penetrating oil onto it so that it may drip down into the part where the nut is covering the tread. Sometimes just doing it once won't work. I recently worked on my front pipe exhaust and I sprayed PB Blaster on it for 1 week straight, daily. It still didn't let go after that and I had to use a different method.

Tip 3: Freezing products. The ideology behind this is that it causes the metal to contract, thus breaking the bonds of the rust. I haven't personally used any of these products but I have heard good things. These are more expensive than the PB Blaster, therefore I recommend trying that first.

Tip 4: Only do this if you have tried the other options above. If your bolt is so old and rusted that the other options didn't work, torch it. Yes, torch it. Like with a Propane torcher. I recently did this with my exhaust pipe and it came off with ease. When metal get's hot it expands and breaks the bonds on the rust. The downside of this is that if you torch it too hot, it is easy to crack the head of the bolt off. That would be bad.

When you torch the bolt, you should only torch it long enough for the bolt head to start glowing red. As Mr. Car Guy suggested, you can try heating it then cooling it with cold water, than using penetrating oil.

That's it for now. If those options don't work for you, then a pneumatic wrench is about the only thing left. You do run a high risk of cracking the bolt head that way though.

2000 1999 Manual Motor Lexus ES300 Parts Screeching Sell Car

Approximately 3 weeks ago I started hearing a loud hum as I accelerated or held a constant speed. At first it was a now and again thing which grew more and more constant as time went on. It grew into a screeching sound, which I assumed must have meant my brakes were worn. I brought it in and was told my front brakes were 95% gone and my back brakes only 50%. A week ago I had my front brakes replaced, a brake system flush and my back rotars resurfaced. As soon as I left the noise showed up and was constant the entire week. I brought it back and they resurfaced the front rotars and took apart both the front and back brakes and relubed them both. The noise seemed to be gone the first 10 minutes driving home then it faintly started coming back. By the time I was a couple roads from home it was the exact constant loud noise I've heard the last few weeks.

A description of the noise: At first was just a high pitched hum which is now a screeching noise which sounds like bad brakes.

The noise is only when I accelerate slowly or stay at a constant speed. It doesn't make the noise if I accel quickly. At first I thought 2000 1999 Manual Motor Lexus ES300 Parts Screeching Sell Car braking made it stop but have since realized it's not the brakes that make it stop but simply releasing the accelerator/gas pedal. It stop immediately when I let off the gas.

It seems to come from the front of the car and is not associated with the A/C - still makes the exact same noise if A/C is shut off.

If you have any suggestions please reply. This constant screeching sound is driving me insane and my repair shop can't seem to figure it out. They keep swearing up and down it has to be the brakes but even after new brakes, a brake flush and relubing the noise is still the exact same. 

Simoniz Paintwork Wax Credit Car Paint

So your ready to "Wax" your little beauty.

The term wax these days is actually a spill over from the days of "Lacquer" which required wax not only to help the finish shine but seal the fraqile and constantly drying paint. Yes laquer is constantly drying an is only finally dry when it chalks out to the point of losing it's shine that will never return

Somewhere in between yesterdays laquer and todays urethane based paints had the far more durable that laquer replacement of enamel which is also better off with the modern form of finish protection that the urethanes prefer.

Todays Simoniz Paintwork Wax Credit Car Paint on the other hand, whether it be medium or high solid acrylic urethane based, do not require the same protection as yesterdays Laquer types.

Polymer based car finish protectants still commonly called "car wax" which it isnt, protect the finish far better than wax.

The advantages of polymer finsh protectors are it's ability to inhibit damage from UV Rays, acid rain and the ever popular bird bombs.

How I recommend prepping a car for a fine polymer finish protection.

1. Clean it well, when reapplying a polymer, my choice of cleaning revolves around a good washing with dish soap. Mix it about 2x stronger that you would for washing dishes. It is strong enough to remove road film, oily deposits, etc... with out damaging the vehicle in any way.

Always wrinse thoroughly and dry. Some will prefere the chamois (shammy, chammy or chammie) whether it be natural or synthetic or a bath towel. What ever suits you.

2. A word of caution, polymer finish protectors have a tendancy to chalk out the satin or flat black trim panels and even the rubber seals. Either avoid them compleatly of if you please border tape them but only use automotive grade tape. Other tapes tend to leave behind glue residue

3. CAUTION!

NEVER apply wax or polymers in direct Sun light!

4. Be cheep, real cheep, did I say cheep, yes I did.

The biggest mistake is the quantity of material used. Not that it will comprimise the quality of the job, just increase the labor to complete the task

Actually the least most minimal amount needed to coat the surface is all that is required for a full quality application

May it be that you have found removing the polymer, once it's chalked out and ready for removal, find it's just as difficult as "wax" you have in fact put it on to thick in the application phase! That is why I say "cheep"

5. Washing a car by hand to compliment the fine polymer finish protection.

Avoid the harsher dish soap and use an automotive car wash soap.

Dry with your preferd method of either a chanios or bath towel

How To Filter Fresh Maintain Cleaning Keeping Your Car Throttle Injector Body


Your throttle body is a very important and commonly neglected part of the engine. A dirty throttle body can cause delayed throttle response, hard gas pedal, and a high or wavering idle. Cleaning the throttle body is a simple procedure and just about the same on every car.

Function of a throttle body: A throttle body is a "throat" that has a butterfly valve. Most cars run on about 15 parts air and 1 part gas that get mixed and combust. The throttle body and the butterfly valve control how much air is put into the mixture. The harder you press the gas pedal, the more the butterfly valve opens. How To Filter Fresh Maintain Cleaning Keeping Your Car Throttle Injector Body When you floor it, this is called "Wide Open Throttle" and it allows maximum airflow.

Materials Needed:

A cleaner. I recommend SeaFoam Deep Creep cleaner. If that is not available, the cheaper alternative is GUMOUT Carb/Choke Cleaner.

A toothbrush.

Rags of paper towels.

A screwdriver. One Phillips to unscrew the hose fastening, and one very large one to hold the throttle open.

Alright, let's get started.

To locate your throttle body, find your air intake. Follow the hose up to a metal structure, that's it. There should be a clamp holding the hose down to it.

Diagram of Engine: (This obviously varies.)

Step 1: Take out your air filter and inspect both sides of it. If it is dirty, slap it against the pavement to knock some dirt out. If it is very dirty, time for a new filter. This affects performance.

Step 2: Unscrew the air hose that is connected to the throttle body. It is usually fastened by a hose clamp that is easily removed with a Phillips screwdriver. The hose may be hard to take off. Just make sure you unscrewed it all the way, and yank until it comes off. You have now exposed the throttle body (DO NOT DRIVE LIKE THIS!). My throttle throat is relatively clean, I cleaned mine out a few weeks ago. Picture of exposed throttle throat:

Step 3: If you haven't done this in a very long time, there is a good chance the body is charcoal colored. This gunk builds up over long periods of time. There might also be a small hole inside the body. This is called the IAC, or Idle Air Control Valve. It isn't always located here, I'm not sure where else it could be. (I could use some clarification here). In my Toyota Camry, it's located inside the throttle body. A dirty IAC valve can cause my Camry's engine to go haywire, so I recommend cleaning it out also.

Step 4: Attach the spray straw to the cleaner you are using. I will be using GUMOUT Carb/Choke Cleaner. Make sure you don't drop the straw into the throttle. With the butterfly still closed, spray the cleaner in the body and scrub away with the toothbrush. The gunk should let go pretty easily. Wipe away excess with a cloth or paper towel. Clean the top of the butterfly valve also. When you are sure it's clean, move on to Step 5.

Step 5: This might be a little tricky. Using a large screwdriver, you need to find a way to prop the throttle open. Example:

With the throttle wide open, the inside of the throat should look like this:

Step 6: Look how dirty it is back there! Spray cleaner past the butterfly valve and scrub with the toothbrush. I know you won't be able to reach inside there and wipe the excess, so just spray it clean as best as you can. Don't worry about spraying too much, it will just burn away and it is perfectly safe for the engine and exhaust.

Step 7: Close the throttle and reattach the intake hose. Put the black terminal cable back on the battery and try to start the car. Keep your mask open in case anything goes haywire. The car may not start a few times, and it will most likely stutter at first. This is normal. Smoke may also billow out of the exhaust. Only a tiny bit will come out if you used the Carb Cleaner. If you used the SeaFoam, white smoke will come out in LARGE amounts. If you live in an area where people would get angry, do this at night. Let the car run for a few minutes so that all the excess cleaner fluid burns away. You can also hold the car at about 2k RPM to speed up the process.

There, you're done! Next time you go out for a spin you should feel a better throttle response and you may also idle lower. When I did this the first time, my throttle was dark black. I idled above 1,000, and dropped to 750. Something this simple can really make a big difference.

Clean Your Battery Terminals Crimp Crimping Auto Repair

This may seem simple, but a lot of people do not know how to do it properly. Severely corroded terminals can cause poor electrical connection which can prevent the car from turning over/starting.

Materials needed:

Baking Soda

Wire Brush (Stiff)

Warm Water

Paper Towel

Screwdrivers or Wrench depending on how your battery terminals are fastened on. Clean Your Battery Terminals Crimp Crimping Auto Repair

Baking Soda

Wire Brush

My dirty battery. (Not really that corroded, but dirty.)

Step 1: Remove any kind of safety fastening you may have on your battery. My car uses a metallic strap kind of device to hold it down. It required me to remove 2 10mm screws.

Step 2: Unscrew/unfasten the terminals. Again, this varies. Always disconnect the negative (black) terminal first, then the positive (red) afterward. When you have these removed, go ahead and remove the whole battery from the engine bay. Set it down somewhere where you can work on it.

Tip: Avoid putting it on your driveway. Baking soda leaves an ugly white stain and it is hard to remove.

Step 3: Obtain a wire brush. These can be found cheap at home depot, and most people have them at home. It should be the very stiff kind.

Step 4: Mix 2-3 Tablespoons of baking soda with a little water. You don't need a lot of water at all, and really you shouldn't use a lot since baking soda isn't soluble in water anyway, it just floats in it.

Step 5: Pour a little of the water/baking soda mixture on both terminals on the battery, and anyplace else on the battery that is corroded. (Fastening contact points). You should hear a "Psssst" sound. With the terminals wet, scrub away at them with the wire brush. Scrub hard, they should practically shine after you're done with it. Wipe the excess water/baking soda with a paper towel.

This is what my terminal looked like after I was done:

Step 6: If your terminal connectors are not detachable and are still in the engine bay, pour the baking soda solution onto a towel and wipe the terminal connectors down. The towel should be very soggy though. Scrub away at them with the wire brush. If your terminal connectors are removable, do the same thing just take them out and you can pour the baking soda solution on them. Wipe them dry.

Dirty terminal connectors:

Clean terminal connectors:

Step 6: This is optional, but it should be done. If you have a petroleum based grease handy, smear the terminals and the terminal connectors with it. This will prevent corrosion (a little).

Step 7: Put everything back together. This time, connect the positive (red) terminal first, followed by the black (negative).

There, you're done.